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GOGG trip to Devon -- June 2009 |
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On Monday 22nd June, 31 members and friends plus two colleagues from the Worcester group set off on the annual GOGG holiday to Devon. Although it was cloudy, the forecast held the promise of a fine week of summer weather ahead and this was to prove correct.
Our first stop on our way down to our hotel at Torquay was at the National Trust garden of Knightshayes Court near Tiverton. This house and garden was developed by the Heathcote-Amory family and the highlight was probably the huge walled garden where a mixture of vegetables, fruit and flowers are grown on a sunny, sheltered south-facing slope where we felt the heat of the Devon sun for the first time. Along with most of the other gardens we visited, much of the grassland in the park had been allowed to grow into an attractive wild flower meadow with many wild orchids as well as other more common plants. In front of the house a number of smaller gardens included an attractive pond garden where we were able to watch dragonflies and damselflies over the water. The garden also contains a number of mature trees including the first of a number of dogwoods (Cornus ?florida) in flower -- these seem to grow like weeds in Devon gardens. The house was also interesting and from the front rooms there are clear views down to the mill at Tiverton from which the family acquired their wealth.
From Knightshayes we continued our journey down to Torquay where we arrived in good time for a little look around the resort before dinner. The Grosvenor Hotel was comfortable and although slightly back from the seafront was well placed for seeing the sights of the town. Also for the first time in the 10 years we have been running these holidays, the hotel had a bar serving real ale from the local Bays Brewery. Not that this prevented some members of the party from walking into town to visit the well-known ‘Hole in the Wall’ good beer pub in the evenings. As so normal on these holidays, there were mixed views on the food, and for myself I felt that the standard on the first evening was excellent but was not maintained. The vegetarian meals were adequate but lacking in interest. However, a fish dish was also available each evening for the ‘not quite’ vegetarians!
The next day again started cloudy but this gradually cleared to give another fine sunny day. Our first visit was to the garden at Dartington Hall near Totnes. Here we were given a really interesting guided tour by one of the gardeners who, after spending 20-odd years working there, was obviously in love with the place. We first visited the Great Hall which dates from the 14th century before looking at the gardens. In contrast to most of the gardens we visited, Dartington Hall is not such a colourful garden apart from one fine herbaceous border, but it contains many beautiful trees including the ubiquitous dogwood trees, a tulip tree and a 2000-year-old yew in the churchyard. Now run by a Trust, this is a beautiful and contemplative garden which the group thoroughly enjoyed. When it was time for lunch we found that it contained its own pub next to the Great Hall, with excellent food and real ales from Devon and Cornwall.
After lunch we left for the short journey to Plant World near Newton Abbot. Perched on the side of a steep hill overlooking the River Teign, this is a real plant lovers’ garden containing sections with plants from all of the continents except Antarctica. Many of these plants are rare and beautiful and there were surprises at every twist and turn of the paths through the gardens, moving from one continent to the next. The gardens also contained many elements of humour for both young and old, including Bill and Ben (and plenty of weeds -- well, wild flowers!) After tea at the excellent café overlooking the valley, we returned to our hotel, but not before the coach began to fill up with plants from this centre!
On Day 3 we started early intending to arrive in Dartmouth in time for people to take a cruise up the River Dart to Totnes and back, but unfortunately the dreadful traffic around Torbay delayed us so much that we missed the boat. Nevertheless, with the morning free in this very attractive port, there was plenty for people to do and many took the one-hour cruise up the river to Dittisham or Greenway, returning via the harbour. On return we crossed by the passenger ferry to Kingswear. Before rejoining the coach for the short journey to Coleton Fishacre we were able to watch a steam train depart for Paignton on the preserved railway. This next house and garden was built for the D’Oyly Carte family (of Savoy Opera fame) above the cove on the beautiful South Devon coast. The house is built in Arts and Crafts style and is decorated and furnished in Art Deco-influenced style. It retains a friendly atmosphere and one feels that one could move into the house as it stands and live happily for many years without making many changes. The gardens occupy a combe running down to the cove where a gate leads out on to the coastal footpath. Here a telescope had been set up to watch a pair of peregrine falcons nesting on the cliff opposite and some members were able to photograph the bird by placing their cameras against the telescope. The garden itself contains many interesting trees (including dogwoods of course) and on the terraces around the house are colourful herbaceous borders. There is also a lovely stream (‘rill’) garden just below the house and the tulip tree lawn. Altogether a delightful house and garden set in a beautiful section of coastline. After toiling back up the hill from the cove, people were able to enjoy a Devon cream tea or real dairy ice cream before returning to the coach for the short journey back to Torquay.
Day 4 again opened warm and sunny and we were soon on our way to the western edge of Devon where we were to visit two gardens at Buckland Monachorum on the edge of Dartmoor. The first garden was the well-known Garden House where for 25 years Keith Wiley was the gardener. The garden contains an old walled garden with an ancient tower and many other delightful corners, again with many lovely trees including a dogwood with almost pink flowers. The highlight of the garden at the time of our visit, however, was the South African (Hot) garden which has been developed on the very thin soils of an old quarry. Here many bright flowers including numerous red poppies were flowering in profusion and with the backdrop of the village church made a beautiful picture in the hot Devon sun. Just below here is a wildflower meadow which reminded me very much of some small Cotswold meadows, containing as it does many wild orchids.
After his 25 years at the Garden House, Keith Wiley has spent the last five years developing his own garden at Wildside and after lunch we travelled the mile or so to look at this new garden. Wildside has been developed very much on the lines of the hot garden at the Garden House, with numerous little hills and valleys where a colourful array of plants is growing well, despite the dryness of the garden. In one little valley a stream has been created and in one part we watched three broad-bodied chaser dragonflies battle for possession of a small pool ideal for breeding. Further down this valley new, larger, pools are being created. This is very much a garden still in the making, which will be well worth visiting again in the future.
The final day began with a journey to the north of Devon for a visit to the RHS, Royal Horticultural Society’s garden at Rosemoor near Great Torrington. As with the other RHS gardens, Rosemoor is both designed to show off good horticultural practice and give an enjoyable day out in beautiful surroundings. The day had begun with the threat of thunderstorms, but these stayed well clear of us, and as we toured the garden the sun gradually came out to give us another hot sunny day. Next to the visitor centre/restaurant are a number of formal gardens designed to show off many different garden styles. We were lucky to see the rose gardens at their zenith with a riot of scents and colours, particularly in the shrub rose garden which is in modern style underplanted with many herbaceous plants. After spending much time enjoying these gardens we found a lovely walk through wild flower meadows to a large garden with a stream and then the large vegetable and fruit garden. This looked wonderful and caused much envy amongst the vegetable growers in our party. From here we crossed the road to the older gardens surrounding Rosemoor House, formerly the home of Lady Anne Berry who donated her 8-acre garden plus the 32 acres of pasture to the RHS in 1988. Unfortunately, despite having 4 ½ hours at Rosemoor, time ran out before I was able to see the new Bicentenary arboretum, and I would have also liked more time to sit by the lake watching the numerous damselflies above the water. However, loaded with happy memories and lots of plants, the party set off for the journey back to Gloucestershire.
For the first time we had a woman coach driver and she did an excellent job, both as driver along some very narrow Devonshire lanes, and as courier sorting out a couple of difficulties for us, without most of the party knowing anything was wrong. Staff at the hotel were friendly and efficient in the main, and the gardens we visited were varied and beautiful. But most of all the weather was ideal and I feel sure that all 33 members of the party felt they had had an interesting and enjoyable little holiday.
Vic Ellis
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